Sunday, August 24, 2008
Thursday, August 21, 2008
TGIF AND THE WEEK IS OVER: I can't believe I posted last on Tuesday! Where has the week gone? I have tried to pack in so much thinking I was leaving on Thursday. However, I discovered at 5 p.m. the night before my departure that a friend of mine from 1989 is getting married - ON FRIDAY! So, I couldn't imagine departing one day short of his wedding. I invited myself and changed my ticket. Now, what do you do for a Russian wedding? I have no gift, he has more money than I will ever have in 10 lifetimes nad I haven't met his future wife. Hmm...a weekend at Greenwood Farm? I thought of that and may create a little "gift certificate" and find someplace to print it out. That would at least mean that I would see him again if he wants to redeem his gift!
The wedding begins at 5 p.m. at the Beach Club. I'm sitting next to his sister Zlata, who I haven't seen in years either. I remember visiting his grandmother years ago. She's since passed away, but he has several brothers and sisters and there will be 150 people or so at the wedding. I think that's a pretty big wedding.
The wedding begins at 5 p.m. at the Beach Club. I'm sitting next to his sister Zlata, who I haven't seen in years either. I remember visiting his grandmother years ago. She's since passed away, but he has several brothers and sisters and there will be 150 people or so at the wedding. I think that's a pretty big wedding.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
INSOMNIA IN MOSCOW: I tried to fall asleep since I need to be at the Starlite Diner early to meet one of my first bosses in Moscow. Things have been working out in various ways. I managed to make it to one of the oldest farmer's markets this morning. It is being renovated and very few vendors were there. However, I enjoyed tasting several traditional sauces and had a nice conversation with this woman from Dagistan. I bought a few jars of "adjika" a spicy Georgian marinade, some mountain honey and a 1/4 kilo of suluguni cheese. I resisted the temptation to buy pickled garlic, but I might chance it on Thursday morning on the way to the airport. The worst they can do is take it away from me at JFK.
I reached out to a Wharton alumnus who lives in Canada and is Russian. It turned out he was in Moscow and we ended up grabbing lunch together. He's building a wealth management company.
As I wandered around the city, I found my mind reaching back to memories from different eras of my life. I managed to finally visit the new cathedral at Kropotkinsky. It's amazing! IT cost a fortune to build, but it was actually free to visit. It's a true replica of what existed a century ago before Stalin destroyed the original church. I am awed by it's sheer size.
I visited the Lenin Library this afternoon. As often I have passed by, I had never stepped foot inside it's doors. I needed to fill out a form and give them my passport to receive an entry pass. I had a rather large bag with me and the woman asked me what was in it. I said, oh, not much, just a wallet and a journal. She flipped out and said a journal! All the more reason to check your bag at the bag check! Hmm, I wonder what she thought I was planning to do. I checked my bag, but kept my wallet, cell phone and camera with me. She asked if I had a camera and I said no.
The library is enormous and the rows upon rows of card catalog boxes would make a researcher cringe. I went inside the reading hall - a massive room the size of a COSTCO about 3 stories high. Long windows on either side gave natural light to add to the rows of large wooden tables with small green reading lamps and green velvet wooden chairs. The air was stale, hot and muggy and the sweat dripped down my face. Dozens of people sat at tables taking copious notes of various books that were spread upon their individual desks. No photocopying, I guess. A larger than life size stature of a seated Lenin reading a book sat upon a platform at the end of the large hall, an enormous painting of Soviet era propoganda on the wall behind him.
I browsed the numerous shelves along the walls and found a few collectiossn of ENcyclopedia Brittanica - 1 from 1952 the other from 1994. As I read the various titles along the shelves, I thought about the people who may have had access to such books back in tghe Soviet Era and what it must have been like to get access back then.
I looked up my grandparents last names in the card catalogue, wondering what kinds of literature the library held. Some cards were hand written, others typed on an obviously old typewriter. The studious readers endured the lack of airconditioning and rather stiff conditions.
I entered another smaller room where statistical and scientific journals were housed. I almost got physically dizzy as I thought about how different my life could have been had I pursued a Masters or PhD in Soviet Studies or Russian literature! I thought of all those PhD candidates applying for permits and dealing with all the red tape to get access to the enormous collections housed in the Lenin Library.
Off to the Manezh where the former home to the Tsar's collection of carraiges and horses now plays host to modern exhibits. This month, it's "back to school and education!" I picked up a few brochures about various institutes for business. It was a rather eclectic "trade show".
I ended the evening drinking beer with former colleagues from Denview. It was really great to catch up with everyone. The memories flowed freerer than the beer and the hugs and kisses at the end of the evening were heartfelt. I do hope to see people in less than 3 years this time!
I reached out to a Wharton alumnus who lives in Canada and is Russian. It turned out he was in Moscow and we ended up grabbing lunch together. He's building a wealth management company.
As I wandered around the city, I found my mind reaching back to memories from different eras of my life. I managed to finally visit the new cathedral at Kropotkinsky. It's amazing! IT cost a fortune to build, but it was actually free to visit. It's a true replica of what existed a century ago before Stalin destroyed the original church. I am awed by it's sheer size.
I visited the Lenin Library this afternoon. As often I have passed by, I had never stepped foot inside it's doors. I needed to fill out a form and give them my passport to receive an entry pass. I had a rather large bag with me and the woman asked me what was in it. I said, oh, not much, just a wallet and a journal. She flipped out and said a journal! All the more reason to check your bag at the bag check! Hmm, I wonder what she thought I was planning to do. I checked my bag, but kept my wallet, cell phone and camera with me. She asked if I had a camera and I said no.
The library is enormous and the rows upon rows of card catalog boxes would make a researcher cringe. I went inside the reading hall - a massive room the size of a COSTCO about 3 stories high. Long windows on either side gave natural light to add to the rows of large wooden tables with small green reading lamps and green velvet wooden chairs. The air was stale, hot and muggy and the sweat dripped down my face. Dozens of people sat at tables taking copious notes of various books that were spread upon their individual desks. No photocopying, I guess. A larger than life size stature of a seated Lenin reading a book sat upon a platform at the end of the large hall, an enormous painting of Soviet era propoganda on the wall behind him.
I browsed the numerous shelves along the walls and found a few collectiossn of ENcyclopedia Brittanica - 1 from 1952 the other from 1994. As I read the various titles along the shelves, I thought about the people who may have had access to such books back in tghe Soviet Era and what it must have been like to get access back then.
I looked up my grandparents last names in the card catalogue, wondering what kinds of literature the library held. Some cards were hand written, others typed on an obviously old typewriter. The studious readers endured the lack of airconditioning and rather stiff conditions.
I entered another smaller room where statistical and scientific journals were housed. I almost got physically dizzy as I thought about how different my life could have been had I pursued a Masters or PhD in Soviet Studies or Russian literature! I thought of all those PhD candidates applying for permits and dealing with all the red tape to get access to the enormous collections housed in the Lenin Library.
Off to the Manezh where the former home to the Tsar's collection of carraiges and horses now plays host to modern exhibits. This month, it's "back to school and education!" I picked up a few brochures about various institutes for business. It was a rather eclectic "trade show".
I ended the evening drinking beer with former colleagues from Denview. It was really great to catch up with everyone. The memories flowed freerer than the beer and the hugs and kisses at the end of the evening were heartfelt. I do hope to see people in less than 3 years this time!
Monday, August 18, 2008
PICTURE IN THE PARK: I did not make it to the dacha this weekend. Zhenya's son was ill and in the hospital. I ended up at my favorite park - Kolomensky - and it has been transformed through renovations. There were a dozen wedding parties walking around and hundreds of tourists - foreign and Russian. I enjoyed walking about and siting a group of hang gliding enthusiasts. Then I spent an hour lying on the grass enjoying a FREE concert of wonderful bell music.
HOT HOT HOT: I am sorry if you are actually looking for new posts every day. It's too hot and I'm too tired to post at the end of the day. I have never had such blisters on my feet! I will just share my thoughts on the Georgian-Russian situation which I prepared to send out to a list serve for Georgian culture that I've been a part of for a few years. However, I chose not to send it there for fear of being misunderstood.
My experience with Georgia is limited to two visits back in 2002 and 2004 and the time I spent (5 years+ various other times ranging from 1988 to present) in Russia. I have a deep respect and appreciation for the Georgian country, culture and people.
I was in Maikop near Krasnodar when the first public situation took place (the analytical panel was a good historical briefing on the situation). All I had access to was Russian news. I had little internet access and read a bit of Western press. If I had been in the States at the time, I would have been "enveloped" in the American mass media machine. I am now back in Moscow until Thursday.
Thanks to the Satvistomo listserve that I am on, I have also added some valuable depth with some of the other news analyses. It's been very helpful. Here's an interesting link that I received:
http://app2.capitalreach.com/esp1204/servlet/tc?cn=aei&c=10162&s=20271&e=10307&&espmt=2
It's an hour and a half panel discussion on the historical situation.
My conversations with Russians here have probably been about as limited to the conversations that many of the Georgians and Russians probably have with the Average American - peripheral at best. HOwever, those conversations I have had here in Russia have been tinged with some real anti-American anti-Georgian pro-Russian perspectives and I tried to stay as neutral as possible. Strong emotions would not help to change perspectives. Not being Georgian or Russian, but understanding "some" of the historical and cultural issues involved from all sides, I try to remain empathic and sensitive. I realized it's more of a challenge for those closer to the situation (Russian/Ossetian/Georgian). I try to read and absorb the news and analyses with a critical eye and I don't want to appear indifferent to the depth of emotions involved and the impact that this situation is having on so many regular people - including soldiers on both sides who must follow orders, regardless of what they are. Embedded in these orders are these cultural and political perspectives, which only aid to inflame the atrocities further.
My respect and appreciation for the beauty and compassion within the hearts of all the ethnic cultures involved have helped me to understand, but not accept, what is happening.
I keep all involved and effected in my heart and thoughts and hope that this gets resolved quickly. I pray that those who have the power to etiher inflict more hurt and pain or facilitate peace, will somehow utilize the amazing power that they have to be critical and sensitive.
As best as we can as members of this site (there are 162 members listed here) - perhaps we can be a small part in creating awareness and perpetuating a peaceful and more interconnected approach to this complex cultural and political situation that is creating devastation and destruction. This is so much a part of our collective history as human beings. Our neighbors and relatives are where we can begin.
I share with you the idea to hold in your hearts all victims and look deeply at your own hearts to help to heal the physical and emotional damage that is being inflicted in Ossetia and Georgia today. One remarkable man who has helped me in my life to deal with anger is Thich Naht Hanh. Here's a link to his wisdom and a book that I recommend:
http://www.alibris.com/search/books/qwork/323262/used/Anger:%20Wisdom%20for%20Cooling%20the%20Flames
Peace,
My experience with Georgia is limited to two visits back in 2002 and 2004 and the time I spent (5 years+ various other times ranging from 1988 to present) in Russia. I have a deep respect and appreciation for the Georgian country, culture and people.
I was in Maikop near Krasnodar when the first public situation took place (the analytical panel was a good historical briefing on the situation). All I had access to was Russian news. I had little internet access and read a bit of Western press. If I had been in the States at the time, I would have been "enveloped" in the American mass media machine. I am now back in Moscow until Thursday.
Thanks to the Satvistomo listserve that I am on, I have also added some valuable depth with some of the other news analyses. It's been very helpful. Here's an interesting link that I received:
http://app2.capitalreach.com/esp1204/servlet/tc?cn=aei&c=10162&s=20271&e=10307&&espmt=2
It's an hour and a half panel discussion on the historical situation.
My conversations with Russians here have probably been about as limited to the conversations that many of the Georgians and Russians probably have with the Average American - peripheral at best. HOwever, those conversations I have had here in Russia have been tinged with some real anti-American anti-Georgian pro-Russian perspectives and I tried to stay as neutral as possible. Strong emotions would not help to change perspectives. Not being Georgian or Russian, but understanding "some" of the historical and cultural issues involved from all sides, I try to remain empathic and sensitive. I realized it's more of a challenge for those closer to the situation (Russian/Ossetian/Georgian). I try to read and absorb the news and analyses with a critical eye and I don't want to appear indifferent to the depth of emotions involved and the impact that this situation is having on so many regular people - including soldiers on both sides who must follow orders, regardless of what they are. Embedded in these orders are these cultural and political perspectives, which only aid to inflame the atrocities further.
My respect and appreciation for the beauty and compassion within the hearts of all the ethnic cultures involved have helped me to understand, but not accept, what is happening.
I keep all involved and effected in my heart and thoughts and hope that this gets resolved quickly. I pray that those who have the power to etiher inflict more hurt and pain or facilitate peace, will somehow utilize the amazing power that they have to be critical and sensitive.
As best as we can as members of this site (there are 162 members listed here) - perhaps we can be a small part in creating awareness and perpetuating a peaceful and more interconnected approach to this complex cultural and political situation that is creating devastation and destruction. This is so much a part of our collective history as human beings. Our neighbors and relatives are where we can begin.
I share with you the idea to hold in your hearts all victims and look deeply at your own hearts to help to heal the physical and emotional damage that is being inflicted in Ossetia and Georgia today. One remarkable man who has helped me in my life to deal with anger is Thich Naht Hanh. Here's a link to his wisdom and a book that I recommend:
http://www.alibris.com/search/books/qwork/323262/used/Anger:%20Wisdom%20for%20Cooling%20the%20Flames
Peace,
Saturday, August 16, 2008
MOST EXPENSIVE CITY IN THE WORLD? I know you've heard it before - but here's some crazy proof:
250 ml bottle of bubbly water in a coffee house - 85 rubles plus tip or $4
Starbucks grande latte 180 rubles, or $7 plus change
use of a porta potty 15-20 rubles, or 60 to 80 cents - there is a lady that is paid to collect the money outside the stalls
10 minute taxi ride - asking price starts at 2000 rubles, negotiation down to 500 rubles, or $22
40 minute boat ride on the Moscow river, 350 rubles, or $16
It's utterly insane. The metro costs 10 rubles, or 50 cents - which is a lot for a regular Russian
Gold's Gym membership per year is $1800 - my 2 gym membership isn't looking that bad after all!
I'm sure there are more examples - but I have tried to maintain discipline and pee only at home, walk the extra mile, skip the boat ride, carry my own water bottle, and give up coffee.
250 ml bottle of bubbly water in a coffee house - 85 rubles plus tip or $4
Starbucks grande latte 180 rubles, or $7 plus change
use of a porta potty 15-20 rubles, or 60 to 80 cents - there is a lady that is paid to collect the money outside the stalls
10 minute taxi ride - asking price starts at 2000 rubles, negotiation down to 500 rubles, or $22
40 minute boat ride on the Moscow river, 350 rubles, or $16
It's utterly insane. The metro costs 10 rubles, or 50 cents - which is a lot for a regular Russian
Gold's Gym membership per year is $1800 - my 2 gym membership isn't looking that bad after all!
I'm sure there are more examples - but I have tried to maintain discipline and pee only at home, walk the extra mile, skip the boat ride, carry my own water bottle, and give up coffee.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
BACK IN MOSCOW: Well, I am finally on line whenever I want to be. it's given me a chance to visit some news sites and hear CNN international. I think the Georgian and Ossetian situtation is so complex - it's a challenge to really digest and understand the dynamics of what is going on over there. Our media oversimplifies as does the Russian media.
I just watched an in-depth panel discussion which some of you may find interesting:
http://www.aei.org/events/type.upcoming,eventID.1769,filter.all/event_detail.asp#
I'm on a Georgian cultural yahoo group that I joined when I was in California. The sparks flyng there are incredible, but many of them are bringing up alternative news to share. Gorbachev was on Larry King Live last night - I didn't see the whole thing since I had access only to the web video today.
It's already 10:30 a.m. here! I have to get out for the day. My time here is going to go really quickly.
I just watched an in-depth panel discussion which some of you may find interesting:
http://www.aei.org/events/type.upcoming,eventID.1769,filter.all/event_detail.asp#
I'm on a Georgian cultural yahoo group that I joined when I was in California. The sparks flyng there are incredible, but many of them are bringing up alternative news to share. Gorbachev was on Larry King Live last night - I didn't see the whole thing since I had access only to the web video today.
It's already 10:30 a.m. here! I have to get out for the day. My time here is going to go really quickly.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
AN INTENSE DAY OF BRAINSTORMING: Well, I have 2 days left here in Maikop. I wonder how much good I've done. I have learned a lot about their market adn their challenges, but helping them with a strategy is really going to be a challenge. We spent the morning with the Sales Director basically hashing out a business review and doing a SWOT analysis. We didn't get very far as information is so limited.
Mid-day, the director arrived and I had the opportunity to really sit down with him and ask some key strategic questions, share some thoughts and ideas and I felt like we had a very good rappore. Tomorrow, I am doing a 2 hour seminar on sales and marketing basics and then we'll do some blind taste testing and brainstorming. I'm looking forward to that but I am grateful to have an intepreter.
This evening, we arrived back at the hotel and I had a HUGE heavy briefcase. Of course, being in Russia, men generally carry things like that for women. It's the one perk that exists in the business world for women. Last night, Sergei offered to take my bag up the 3 flights of stairs to our floor. Today, as we walked to the entrance to the hotel, I contemplated whether or not he would offer, or if I should ask if he was going to and I heard him sigh and reach over to take my bag. As Sergei lived in the US for 9 years, I think the same thougths were going through his mind as well. We both laughed at the situation, but he did offer, and I did accept his offer to carry my bag.
I will NOT be in shape for this bike ride in 2 weeks. Hmm. OKay, that's it for today.
Mid-day, the director arrived and I had the opportunity to really sit down with him and ask some key strategic questions, share some thoughts and ideas and I felt like we had a very good rappore. Tomorrow, I am doing a 2 hour seminar on sales and marketing basics and then we'll do some blind taste testing and brainstorming. I'm looking forward to that but I am grateful to have an intepreter.
This evening, we arrived back at the hotel and I had a HUGE heavy briefcase. Of course, being in Russia, men generally carry things like that for women. It's the one perk that exists in the business world for women. Last night, Sergei offered to take my bag up the 3 flights of stairs to our floor. Today, as we walked to the entrance to the hotel, I contemplated whether or not he would offer, or if I should ask if he was going to and I heard him sigh and reach over to take my bag. As Sergei lived in the US for 9 years, I think the same thougths were going through his mind as well. We both laughed at the situation, but he did offer, and I did accept his offer to carry my bag.
I will NOT be in shape for this bike ride in 2 weeks. Hmm. OKay, that's it for today.
Monday, August 11, 2008
Okay, I'm going to test putting a photo here. I can't remember how to do that.
Well, let's try again. I just uploaded a bunch of pictures, but maybe I need to do them separately.
I had a great re-entry experience last week - between a fantastic weekend visiting with Heidi and then enjoying the mommy world on Monday with my old roommate and her daughter fresh off the plane from Hong Kong and Nadira and Anya and her little boy at the restaurant in the evening.
AN EXCURSION TO THE MOUNTAINS: I can't believe how limited my access to the internet is here. I have 3 cell phones (including my TREO), and a laptop and yet, I feel like I'm in a deep cave under the ocean, or perhaps on top of a mountain. That's where I went yesterday with Sergei and 10 other people in a small minivan. We almost didn't get on when we arrived at the meeting point at 9 a.m. on Sunday morning. We had purchased our tickets the day before, but apparently, the office where we purchased them did not communicate with the tour operator and they were overbooked by 5 or 6 people. The first four left before I even arrived - apparently willing to settle for the explanation and give up. I didn't understand the deal when I got there and jumped into an empty seat in the van. At that point, they were never going to remove me.
When I understood what had happened, I calmly made it clear that I paid for an excursion to the mountains and they should figure something out. She tried to talk me off the bus, but I guess they figured it was no use. Fortunately, there was only 1 seat to find - the tour guide was given a small stool which was placed in the aisle. Poor guy - what an uncomfortable day for him. He managed to speak almost the entire time - 2 hours up and 2 hours back and everywhere in between.
Our first stop was a small cafe with attractions - the most unique being a cage of domesticated raccoons that ate bread from your hand! I can't even imagine how they came up with that. They had another cage with 2 small pigs, some doves, some chickens, a rabbit and a peacock. Apparently, they keep themselves entertained - the peacock bullying the two little pigs around the pen. The Turkish coffee was good and some of the gardens were quite lovely as well. HOwever, a little detail like plumbing for the bathrooms, was still missing and I realize how much I take our Maryland Houses on I-95 for granted.
As the day began, we realized that the 450 rubles, or $20, that we paid for the excursion, did not include any of the entrance fees, camera fees or coat rentals. Sergei and I did make sandwiches (both of us did) - so when we got to the top of the mountain with 45 minutes for lunch, some of the folks we befriended joined us at a table and all was shared around. The cheese and sausage sandwiches, cabbage salad, fresh sliced cucumbers and tomatoes from someone's garden,pickles, bread, peppers, eggplant and boiled potatoes were all washed down with warm Nevsky Beer. It was a lovely picnic and I ended up being given more food to take home than I came with.
Our next stop was another cave for another 100 rubles, or $4.00 with optional coat rental for $1. I opted out and took a long walk up the mountain further to a great panoramic view. There were several tourists there, so I tried to walk further along the edge of the cliff, but found the path ended about 10 minutes along. As well, I began to envision some undesirable creatures - either furry or not, and a bit of anxiety set in.
I will have to finish this story another time. My hour is almost up and I am still trying to download some US news about the situation in Northern Ossetia. WHat a nightmare! I'm sure you all have heard about the Georgian (or Russian - depending on which news you are listening to)invasion and slaughter happening over the weekend.
I've been watching Russian tv - between the Olympics, Russian reality tv, foreign movies dubbed in Russian and the news (last night hours and horus of UN talks) - it's still a challenge to know what's going on. I'll have another post for that later as well.
By the way, if you are reading this - drop me an email! It get's lonely here without outside communication.
When I understood what had happened, I calmly made it clear that I paid for an excursion to the mountains and they should figure something out. She tried to talk me off the bus, but I guess they figured it was no use. Fortunately, there was only 1 seat to find - the tour guide was given a small stool which was placed in the aisle. Poor guy - what an uncomfortable day for him. He managed to speak almost the entire time - 2 hours up and 2 hours back and everywhere in between.
Our first stop was a small cafe with attractions - the most unique being a cage of domesticated raccoons that ate bread from your hand! I can't even imagine how they came up with that. They had another cage with 2 small pigs, some doves, some chickens, a rabbit and a peacock. Apparently, they keep themselves entertained - the peacock bullying the two little pigs around the pen. The Turkish coffee was good and some of the gardens were quite lovely as well. HOwever, a little detail like plumbing for the bathrooms, was still missing and I realize how much I take our Maryland Houses on I-95 for granted.
As the day began, we realized that the 450 rubles, or $20, that we paid for the excursion, did not include any of the entrance fees, camera fees or coat rentals. Sergei and I did make sandwiches (both of us did) - so when we got to the top of the mountain with 45 minutes for lunch, some of the folks we befriended joined us at a table and all was shared around. The cheese and sausage sandwiches, cabbage salad, fresh sliced cucumbers and tomatoes from someone's garden,pickles, bread, peppers, eggplant and boiled potatoes were all washed down with warm Nevsky Beer. It was a lovely picnic and I ended up being given more food to take home than I came with.
Our next stop was another cave for another 100 rubles, or $4.00 with optional coat rental for $1. I opted out and took a long walk up the mountain further to a great panoramic view. There were several tourists there, so I tried to walk further along the edge of the cliff, but found the path ended about 10 minutes along. As well, I began to envision some undesirable creatures - either furry or not, and a bit of anxiety set in.
I will have to finish this story another time. My hour is almost up and I am still trying to download some US news about the situation in Northern Ossetia. WHat a nightmare! I'm sure you all have heard about the Georgian (or Russian - depending on which news you are listening to)invasion and slaughter happening over the weekend.
I've been watching Russian tv - between the Olympics, Russian reality tv, foreign movies dubbed in Russian and the news (last night hours and horus of UN talks) - it's still a challenge to know what's going on. I'll have another post for that later as well.
By the way, if you are reading this - drop me an email! It get's lonely here without outside communication.
Friday, August 08, 2008
A GAME OF CHICKEN AMIDST THE SUNFLOWERS: I have been doing a bit of driving here - well, as a passenger in the front seat of a Toyota. We seem to drive an average of 100 kilometres an hour down these two lane highways with no median. Oddly enough, when the road turns to 3 lanes iwth a passing lane, one direction or the other gets the passing lane. HOwever, unlike our highways where the slow driver moves over to a new open right lane adn the passing cars go straight ahead, it's the opposite here. The passing car gets ready to speed over to the left and pass when they see the opening coming up. It often feels a bit like chicken and it seems rather dodgy (no pun intended.)
When there is a highway with no center line, it really does become a game of dodge. Fortunately, it's like Iowa or Nebraska here - flat and straight, so possible on coming cars are visible for long distances. I've still had some frightening white knuckle moments as the driver risks the dodge around the left corner of the car in front, just 5 feet from our bumper.
You may be wondering about the sunflower reference. oh, the gorgeous fields of bright yellow sunflowers line the highways for miles. It's quite beautiful in an otherwise rather bland landscape. Not many villages or towns once you leave Krasnodar. Just open fields of grass and a few trees and houses on occassion.
Sergei was caught snoring this evening on the way back to the hotel from the factory. I've remained in a semi-state of existential coma, wearing dark sunglasses and maintaining an expressionless composure. After a day of speaking russian, it's about all I can manage.
Today was TGIF for most of the employees. We had 3 separate "product tastings" starting with soft cheese and honey this morning, fried cheese at lunch and string/smoked cheese with beer at around 3:30. So, today, I've eaten, well, cheese... Halfway through the delicious plate of fried cheese with onion and hot pepper, I realized that it was pure 40% fat cheese I was eating by the forkfull, and decided to stop while I was ahead. Maybe I'll find some tomatoes and cucumbers for dinner.
I need to meet Sergei in about 30 minutes to walk to the train station. We may adventure off to the Black Sea tomorrow by train. It goes around the mountains. I'm envisioning Dr. ZHivago or Anna Karenina - but hopefully won't get the Broad Street Line instead. Oh, well, as long as I get rid of the cash I have to pay for the hotel, I should be okay. I think with the new sitaution in Georgia and South Ossetia, the Russians are othewise preoccupied. I need to see what the news is saying about that...
When there is a highway with no center line, it really does become a game of dodge. Fortunately, it's like Iowa or Nebraska here - flat and straight, so possible on coming cars are visible for long distances. I've still had some frightening white knuckle moments as the driver risks the dodge around the left corner of the car in front, just 5 feet from our bumper.
You may be wondering about the sunflower reference. oh, the gorgeous fields of bright yellow sunflowers line the highways for miles. It's quite beautiful in an otherwise rather bland landscape. Not many villages or towns once you leave Krasnodar. Just open fields of grass and a few trees and houses on occassion.
Sergei was caught snoring this evening on the way back to the hotel from the factory. I've remained in a semi-state of existential coma, wearing dark sunglasses and maintaining an expressionless composure. After a day of speaking russian, it's about all I can manage.
Today was TGIF for most of the employees. We had 3 separate "product tastings" starting with soft cheese and honey this morning, fried cheese at lunch and string/smoked cheese with beer at around 3:30. So, today, I've eaten, well, cheese... Halfway through the delicious plate of fried cheese with onion and hot pepper, I realized that it was pure 40% fat cheese I was eating by the forkfull, and decided to stop while I was ahead. Maybe I'll find some tomatoes and cucumbers for dinner.
I need to meet Sergei in about 30 minutes to walk to the train station. We may adventure off to the Black Sea tomorrow by train. It goes around the mountains. I'm envisioning Dr. ZHivago or Anna Karenina - but hopefully won't get the Broad Street Line instead. Oh, well, as long as I get rid of the cash I have to pay for the hotel, I should be okay. I think with the new sitaution in Georgia and South Ossetia, the Russians are othewise preoccupied. I need to see what the news is saying about that...
Thursday, August 07, 2008
THURSDAY NIGHT IN MAIKOP: Well, I finally am able to get on line here. I'm actually not in Krasnodar, but 1.5 hours from Krasnodar in Maikop, the capital of the Adygea Republic. I arrived here on Tuesday evening. The first thing the hotel concierge said was that the water would be turned off for 2 days in the entire city by 6 a.m. So, I filled my bathtub that evening only to discover that the plug didn't work well. Fortunately, the water came back earlier tahn expectd and I was able to enjoy a cold shower this morning.
Let me back up a few days since I missed out on getting this post earlier. My last few days in Moscow were great. I was able to reconnect with a few friends, including my former boss from Interlink, 2 of my former employees from Interlink and my friend and former roommate who now lives in Hong Kong. It was such a treat to see her and her new daughter, who coincidentally arrived on Monday for a 2 week holiday at Zhenya's dacha. We had a lovely afternoon at the Bosko Cafe in GUM overlooking Red Square. I have photos I was hopeful to post, but didn't manage to do it and can't do it from the Internet Club here on Lenin Square.
The company I'm working with here is a cheese factory. They were a former milk producer from the 1940s and about 8 years ago, the chief Engineer/new owner/CEO decided to invest in cheese making equipment and started to make the traditional Adygea cheeses. He revitalized the company and built the business from scratch. HIs staff is untrained in marketing, sales and strategic planning so they need help to improve their marketing and sales operations.
Vera,the young sales director, Sergei, the interpreter, and I met Murat in Krasnodar today to do a bit of market analysis. IT's been fascinating to be thrown back into this environment and I've enjoyed using another part of my brain again! My Russian is not nearly as rusty as I thought. I even watched some of the news this evening and understood quite a bit of it.
There was some sort of bombing or shootout on the beach in Sochi, the Russian resort town on the Black Sea. It's about 5-6 hours by train from here adn I may go there on Saturday. I dont think the incident will deter me as much as the 10 hours of train travel. However, I've heard the train is pleasant and modern.
Apparently, they ahve changed some customs law and about 250 tourists returnign from Turkey were detained and charged improt duties on items such as extra pairs of shoes, fur coats, clothing of all sorts. Turkey was/is the hotspot to go to buy cheap goods and return to moscow to sell them. Now, they are cracking down on it. They interviewed some of the passengers who seemed to be irritated by this new law.
Well, my hour of internet access is almost up, it's late adn I'm exhausted. I hope to get back on line a bit tomorrow. Pretty soon, I'll be on a plane home and my adventures will be over. Or, will they? I'm having some serious thoughts about this country. So many great ideas and possible business opportunities. Heck, they need a sales rep for some big cities adn it's quite possible that these folks make over $5-6k a month selling cheese. NOt a bad gig, eh? It's not investment banking, but the clmate in this area is great adn they are making major investments with the 2014 olympics in Sochi. I went to an amazing supermarket today that has everything under the sun and they take credit cards.
I think I might miss my niece adn nephews too much - and my garden...Choices...
Let me back up a few days since I missed out on getting this post earlier. My last few days in Moscow were great. I was able to reconnect with a few friends, including my former boss from Interlink, 2 of my former employees from Interlink and my friend and former roommate who now lives in Hong Kong. It was such a treat to see her and her new daughter, who coincidentally arrived on Monday for a 2 week holiday at Zhenya's dacha. We had a lovely afternoon at the Bosko Cafe in GUM overlooking Red Square. I have photos I was hopeful to post, but didn't manage to do it and can't do it from the Internet Club here on Lenin Square.
The company I'm working with here is a cheese factory. They were a former milk producer from the 1940s and about 8 years ago, the chief Engineer/new owner/CEO decided to invest in cheese making equipment and started to make the traditional Adygea cheeses. He revitalized the company and built the business from scratch. HIs staff is untrained in marketing, sales and strategic planning so they need help to improve their marketing and sales operations.
Vera,the young sales director, Sergei, the interpreter, and I met Murat in Krasnodar today to do a bit of market analysis. IT's been fascinating to be thrown back into this environment and I've enjoyed using another part of my brain again! My Russian is not nearly as rusty as I thought. I even watched some of the news this evening and understood quite a bit of it.
There was some sort of bombing or shootout on the beach in Sochi, the Russian resort town on the Black Sea. It's about 5-6 hours by train from here adn I may go there on Saturday. I dont think the incident will deter me as much as the 10 hours of train travel. However, I've heard the train is pleasant and modern.
Apparently, they ahve changed some customs law and about 250 tourists returnign from Turkey were detained and charged improt duties on items such as extra pairs of shoes, fur coats, clothing of all sorts. Turkey was/is the hotspot to go to buy cheap goods and return to moscow to sell them. Now, they are cracking down on it. They interviewed some of the passengers who seemed to be irritated by this new law.
Well, my hour of internet access is almost up, it's late adn I'm exhausted. I hope to get back on line a bit tomorrow. Pretty soon, I'll be on a plane home and my adventures will be over. Or, will they? I'm having some serious thoughts about this country. So many great ideas and possible business opportunities. Heck, they need a sales rep for some big cities adn it's quite possible that these folks make over $5-6k a month selling cheese. NOt a bad gig, eh? It's not investment banking, but the clmate in this area is great adn they are making major investments with the 2014 olympics in Sochi. I went to an amazing supermarket today that has everything under the sun and they take credit cards.
I think I might miss my niece adn nephews too much - and my garden...Choices...
Sunday, August 03, 2008
THE VORTEX KNOWN ONLY TO THOSE WHO REMEMBER: After 10 hours of movies, wine and a bit of dozing, my arrival on Russian soil at 10:30 a.m. was uneventful. By 2:30 p.m. I was drinking wine on the Arbat with Heidi. I managed to get my cell phone re-registered with a new phone number for less than $30! We did a bit of grocery shopping and as we filled our basket with several bottles of wine, the sommelier came up to us and said we couldn't buy any wine today. She pointed out the sign that stated there was an official ordinance from the City of Moscow to prevent the sale of alcoholic beverages today. The reason - it's some sort of military holiday (day of the merchant marines?) and so, the theory is, don't sell booze, so they don't get drunk and ruff up the streets. So, we were stuck with my small bottle of red wine, bequeathed to me by my Delta seatmate, Fred. Fred, from West Palm Beach must have thought me a lush after watching me down a bloddy mary and a glass of wine before we even reached the Atlantic Ocean. That was enough to make me pass out, so saved the extra bottle to take to Moscow.
After shopping, we returned home to get ready for a party. I guess I can't get away from the vortex. I've been sucked back into this world as I spent the evening networking at a going away party for the parents of an American businessman. My mind, racing with the ideas from the renewed energy of nostalgic memories mingled with present day stories, turned jetlag into jet fuel as I kept going until 2 a.m.
The wine consumption continued until well after midnight. Fortunately, there was an abundance of delicious catered Russian food to absorb the excess alcohol. Well, it was a nice thought anyway.
Russian blini with caviar, "salat", all sorts of hot and cold appetizers. The crowd ranged in age from 20something to 70ish, middle-aged American businessmen and, well, of course, beautiful Russian women. I held my own and worked the room as if it were a Wharton event. To my amazement, the host himself was a Wharton undergraduate adn his mother, a native Philadelphian, shared with me all their connections to Penn. Another guest I met turned out to be on my list of Wharton alumni that I thought I might reach out to. Too bad I can't write off the trip as work related:)
For the first time in over 3 years, I actually slept until noon. A lovely rainy Sunday and no NYTimes to read. Hmm, I will have to pick up a Moscow Times. I'm now connected to the internet thanks to Golden Wifi. Perhaps today we can buy some wine.
After shopping, we returned home to get ready for a party. I guess I can't get away from the vortex. I've been sucked back into this world as I spent the evening networking at a going away party for the parents of an American businessman. My mind, racing with the ideas from the renewed energy of nostalgic memories mingled with present day stories, turned jetlag into jet fuel as I kept going until 2 a.m.
The wine consumption continued until well after midnight. Fortunately, there was an abundance of delicious catered Russian food to absorb the excess alcohol. Well, it was a nice thought anyway.
Russian blini with caviar, "salat", all sorts of hot and cold appetizers. The crowd ranged in age from 20something to 70ish, middle-aged American businessmen and, well, of course, beautiful Russian women. I held my own and worked the room as if it were a Wharton event. To my amazement, the host himself was a Wharton undergraduate adn his mother, a native Philadelphian, shared with me all their connections to Penn. Another guest I met turned out to be on my list of Wharton alumni that I thought I might reach out to. Too bad I can't write off the trip as work related:)
For the first time in over 3 years, I actually slept until noon. A lovely rainy Sunday and no NYTimes to read. Hmm, I will have to pick up a Moscow Times. I'm now connected to the internet thanks to Golden Wifi. Perhaps today we can buy some wine.
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